The Grail Vine is a newsletter which passes on materials to the Grail Ring. Grail Zine is the electronic magazine of the Grail Ring. Grail News Now or GNN is its news service. Most Grail Vines and Zines are available when one has done the DIAMOND BODY Training with Ananda/Emmanuel, which entitles one to automatic subscription to these publications.

Some of the material within these publications come onto the web site, and usually 6 months to a year later. Here is one Grail Vine. As the early Zines and Vines point out, Truth Is Plural, let your own unique truth guide you by...

All of the Grail Ring do not use these elements without Internal Alchemy by whole body Phase-Conjugation, or Diamond Body Vortexijah by compassionate ecstasis. As with the Somegenics with which the Gold is added -- Daily practice comes first, there is no short cut in alchemy. Be a Coherent Uni-PHIer of "Making the Inner like the outer, and the outer like the inner."

 

GRAIL VINE 11

SUPERCONDUCTING GOLD FROM SEA WATER

THE ALCHEMICAL STONE FROM SEA SALT

 

Dear EnGrailed brothers and sisters. After hearing that some brothers and sisters have still been using the Etherium and Isis White Gold sources, which we have been repeatedly relaying, for at least one year, contain radioactive ingredients, we send this posting, which tells one HOW TO EXTRACT THE MONO ATOMIC SUPERCONDUCTING ALCHEMICAL ELEMENTS FROM SEA WATER. Yes, just as the Anunaki master Alchemist Enki/Ptah, according to the most ancient Sumerian Kings lists, extracted gold from sea water.

Please investigate any source of monatomic elements, and consider that 1 year of radioactive elements and heavy metals will not breakdown, and may reach a dangerous level after one year suplementation. Treat this subject with wisdom, this is not just a vitamine.

The reason one may feel high with radioactives is that the life force is being released from the cells, the same mistake made by the Taoist alchemists according to their archaic literature. In other words, they are slowly dying, like chemotherapy. The best would be to xtract the stone yourself with Conscious Intent of the Quantum observer in the heating process, sound, and heart coherence.

You may want to use the dead sea salts, or Alpine mountain waters, or other volcanic lakes, Salt Lake City salts can also be used. http://www.etherium.com (http://www.etheriumgold.com) relate documentation on their web site for monatomic elements in their formula, but not monatomic gold which is necessary for the pineal gland. With all your sources make sure to EXTRACT the monatomics, and use wisely, and sparingly.

This is a very delicate field. One must know to find gold. One must seek to find. One must open ones eyes. There is no short route, only a Golden Middle Way.

Instead of 'Just say No," "Just Say Know."

One Alchemist colleague in Denmark has successfully isolated the white powder gold from Dead Sea Salt, it tastes like Sweet Sperm, just like the Green Valley Trust Manna. After 3 months it tastes like washing powder, just like Green Valley Trust Manna, and other Alchemists extractions available non-commercially by membership. He said it was very simple indeed.

All Is God Alchemy Be You, ye Merlin's, and Ye Yeshe's, Compassionately...

Light, Love, Life,

-Ananda, February 19th, 2000

 

ORMUS (AL)-CHEM-(Meia)

PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

 

This document may not be reproduced except in its entirety, and without

changes. Before trying any of the procedures described in this document, we

advise you to thoroughly read this document several times.

 

This document was created by a group of people who believe that this

information is of inestimable value to humanity and should be made widely

available as soon as possible. The information here is declared to be in the

public domain and we wish that it not become the sole property of any

individual or group.

 

Here we describe some simple ways of making ORMUS so that readers can

begin true scientific and intuitive experiments with these materials.

 

All of these methods are experimental. The following information is presented

to promote scientific research into the nature of these materials. Although these

methods are based on our best knowledge at this time, further scientific research

may prove some of these processes or theories to be inaccurate.

 

DISCLAIMER

The processes described here have not all been tested extensively. We do not

guarantee the procedures in this document, nor the results obtained by using

them. To the extent that you use or implement these procedures or the products

thereof, you do so at your own risk. In no event will the authors of this

document be liable to you, anyone else, or any organization or government, for

any damages arising from your use, or your inability to use these procedures or

the product thereof. Apply these procedures at your own risk.

 

VERIFICATION

The material made by some of these methods has been tested by an independent

lab using X-ray fluorescence and photo spectrometry to identify the emission

spectra of m-state materials. (The lab prefers to remain anonymous). The

m-state spectral emissions signature was a broad, flat band rather than discrete

lines. The test also showed a significant amount of calcium and magnesium, but

no toxins were evident in well-washed material made from unpolluted ocean

water.

 

To further prove that these materials are a different state of the precious

elements mentioned above, it is possible to electroplate these elements out as

precious metals.

 

People familiar with Hudson's process claim that the materials produced using

these methods are similar to Hudson's ORME materials.

 

INGESTION

We do not recommend the ingestion of these materials since so little is known

about them. This information is being provided so that scientific inquiry can

commence into the nature of these materials. We realize that, despite

recommendations to the contrary, some people will ingest these materials. With

this in mind we offer the following information to minimize any possible

adverse effects from ingesting these materials. Please read the WARNING and

CAUTION sections.

 

Some people have ingested the m-state materials made by these methods. They

suggest that benefits are most likely when dosage is kept small.

 

Three methods of making ORMUS are described in this document: the WET

method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. For the materials

extracted by the wet and dry procedures, one teaspoon of material, morning and

evening, has been found by them to be not harmful over several weeks' time. A

much smaller dose, on the order of a few drops a day, would be more

appropriate for the material produced by the boiling gold method. We believe

that the m-state may be homeopathic, so a much smaller dose may be the safest

-- such as 1/64 teaspoon diluted in one quart of pure water, taken two or three

ounces once or twice a day.

 

David Hudson gave some information on dosage in his Dallas speech at:

http://monatomic.earth.com/david-hudson/1995-02-dallas-toc.html

 

WHITEGOLD WEB PAGE

You can find a discussion forum on the WhiteGold Web page. There you can

post comments and questions on these procedures, and on ORMUS in general.

WhiteGold Web page: http://www.zz.com/WhiteGoldWeb/

 

1.Overview

2.Necessary Supplies

3.pH Paper or pH Meter

4.Safety

5.Wet Method

1. Starting Materials

6.Problems Encountered

7.Avoiding Problems

 

OVERVIEW

This document describes three methods of producing ORMUS: the WET

method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method.

 

All three methods use a chemical lab technique called "measuring pH." The pH

of a solution is a measure of its acid/base ratio. You may remember testing pH

with litmus paper in high school. pH values less than pH 7 indicate an acid, like

distilled white vinegar. pH 7 is neutral, like pure water. Greater than pH 7 is

alkaline, like lye.

 

ORMUS precipitates between pH 8.5 and 10.78.

 

The WET method produces the least "effective" material but is relatively simple

to perform.

 

Here is the basic WET method in brief. It will be discussed later in detail:

 

1. Start with drinkable water or clean sea water.

2. Slowly add a solution of lye mixed with water to raise the pH above

8.5 but no higher than 10.78.

3. A white fluffy precipitate will form which you should allow to settle

overnight.

4. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.

5. Thoroughly wash the precipitate. It is calcium hydroxide,

magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

 

Here is the DRY method in brief:

 

1. Start with dry mineral powder.

2. Boil it in lye water at pH 12.

3. Filter and discard the precipitate.

4. Add distilled white vinegar or hydrochloric acid (HCl) to the filtered

liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.

5. Let the precipitate settle overnight.

6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.

7. Wash the precipitate. That is calcium hydroxide, magnesium

hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

 

And here is the BOILING GOLD method in brief:

 

1. Boil gold dust in a lye solution.

2. Filter out any solids.

3. Add distilled white vinegar or HCl to the remaining liquid to lower

the pH to 8.5.

4. Let the precipitate settle overnight.

5. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.

6. Wash the precipitate. It is almost pure gold m-state material.

 

NECESSARY SUPPLIES TO MAKE M-STATE

A glass or stainless steel pot. If you use stainless-steel pots, check for steel

particles in your precipitate. Although unlikely, this problem may occur if you

use large amounts of HCl to lower the pH. Never use aluminum containers or

utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and

will poison you.

 

Distilled water from a grocery store.

 

A stainless steel spatula or knife for stirring, from a grocery store. Never use

aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like

HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.

 

A few glass jars. Tall skinny ones work best.

 

Lye (sodium hydroxide or NaOH). We will use the term "lye" in this

document rather than "sodium hydroxide" or "NaOH" since it is shorter and

more familiar to most people. Grocery store lye, such as Lewis Red Devil Lye,

is not as pure and uncontaminated as laboratory or food-grade lye. We

strongly recommend that laboratory or food grade sodium hydroxide be used if

the m-state is intended for ingestion since grocery store lye may contain

dangerous contaminants. Note: Virtually no lye will be present in the final

product so it will be safe to ingest. In any case, lye is not toxic, and it is not

caustic when sufficiently diluted (as in these methods).

 

HCl (hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid). We will use the term "HCl" in this

document rather than "hydrochloric acid" or "muriatic acid" since it is shorter.

You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but laboratory,

electronic or food-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. We strongly

recommend that laboratory, electronic or food grade hydrocholoric acid be used

if the m-state is intended for ingestion since muriatic acid from a hardware store

may contain dangerous contaminants. The presence of iron as a contaminant in

the acid may interfere with the m-state materials in some applications.

 

Three eyedropper bottles from a pharmacy. An alternative to eyedroppers is

squirt bottles made of HDPE. Find them at a natural foods store or other store

which sells bulk liquid products like vegetable oils or lotions.

 

A large 50 cc plastic syringe from a veterinary supply shop or a lab-supply

house. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB

SUPPLIES.

 

pH paper or a pH meter. You can get pH paper (pH 1 to 12) from a lab-supply

company or a mining supply store. Use new paper because old paper becomes

inaccurate. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB

SUPPLIES.

pH PAPER OR pH METER?

 

Some experimenters say not to rely on a pH meter because its readings vary

with temperature and ionization. Also, a meter costs much more than pH paper.

Many pH meter probes can be damaged by very strong acids or alkalis. But

some say that a pH meter is essential, for these reasons:

 

pH paper cannot track rapid changes in pH.

pH paper does not resolve pH readings finely enough. It's hard to tell

the difference between pH 9.5, 10.0, and 11.5.

pH meters are best used to get accurate readings between pH 8.5 and

10.78, which is the main range of concern in these methods.

pH meters can spot check any reading with a standard buffer solution.

a pH meter is more convenient.

 

Use only a meter that has an automatic temperature-correcting function up to

100 degrees C.

SAFETY TIPS

 

Clean your containers so that you'd feel safe drinking out of them. Boil

containers, syringes, siphons and so on before use to sterilize them.

 

CAUTION!!

Lye can damage the eyes by rendering the cornea opaque, a form of eye damage

that is irreparable. Lye can burn skin, clothes and eyes. Work near a sink,

faucet, or other source of wash water. You might keep a spray bottle of distilled

white vinegar handy to use against spills.

 

If you spill lye on your clothes or body, immediately wash it off with lots of

water. When working with lye, avoid touching your face or rubbing your eyes.

Do not handle lye around food. Use adequate ventilation such as a range hood.

Do not dump waste water on the ground. Lye is generally safe to put down the

drain, but don't mix it with any acid that may be in the drain as it can react

explosively.

 

When working with lye, please wear goggles or a full-face visor (an industrial

face protector), neoprene gloves, and a PVC lab apron. Sources for this safety

clothing are in the Appendix near the end of this document.

 

Keep children and pets away from the work area, and do not leave it unattended

if children or pets are around.

 

Glass can shatter with hot liquids. Pour boiling liquid from your heating

container into a stainless steel mixing bowl to cool before pouring the liquid

into a glass container.

THE WET METHOD

STARTING MATERIALS FOR THE WET METHOD

 

Some starting materials produce a lot of precipitate, while others do not. Listed

below are materials that have been shown to produce some precipitate from the

WET method:

 

Some municipal drinking water

Some hot springs water without sulfur

Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water

Urine

Some lake or river water whose bed or course is limestone.

Some well water. Ground water is probably more likely to contain

m-state than surface water (except for sea water).

Sea water and sea water reconstituted from certain brands of sea salt,

especially from the Great Salt Lake.

Dead Sea water.

Certain brands of unrefined sea salt are as good as sea water: Celtic

Gray Sea Salt (from health food stores) and Lima Atlantic Sea Salt

(from some health food stores). Add distilled water and use the WET

method. Filter the scum first.

 

The WET method performed on ocean or Dead Sea water produces eleven

different m-state elements.

 

The following materials are ranked in order from most to least m-state content:

 

1. Dead Sea water

2. Salt Lake water

3. Ocean water

4. Well water

 

Listed below are materials that have been found to produce little or no

precipitate from the WET method:

 

Water from some alkali lakes (pH above 8.5).

Hot springs with sulfur (because sulfur reduces m-state to metal).

Mineral-free lake or river water

Dead Sea mineral salts that contain sulfur or sulfates, such as "Sea

Mineral Bath from the Dead Sea" by Dead Sea Works Ltd. for Sea

Minerals Co., and Trace Minerals Research "ConcenTrace Trace

Mineral Drops" from the Great Salt Lake.

 

For the following methods to work, some researchers claim that magnesium or

magnesium hydroxide -- Mg(OH)2 -- must be present in the starting material.

(Since the Boiling Gold method is effective without any magnesium, this claim

will need to be tested.) Sea water already has Mg(OH)2, so you don't need to

add it to sea water. Try your water first. If you don't get any precipitate, you

might add a teaspoon per gallon of Epsom salts to the starting material for its

magnesium. If you do add Epsom salts, the magnesium from them will be a

large portion of the precipitate.

 

WARNING!!

PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED

The following problems have been encountered by some folks who have made

m-state for consumption:

 

Some people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state made

from sea water collected at a marina. This water contained high levels

of lead and other contaminants.

Other people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state materials

which were made improperly. These materials were made without the

use of pH test paper or meters and the resulting material contained

toxic metals. Please remember that old pH paper can become

inaccurate.

People have gotten sick from consuming m-state materials which

contained bacteria because they were not sterilized or stored properly.

It is possible to bring the pH of your source material up too quickly,

especially if you use lye in too high a concentration. This could result

in local areas of very high pH within your solution. These high pH

areas could allow toxic metals to precipitate and mix with your desired

precipitate.

M-state platinum might be considered toxic by some since it makes

you quite ill if you consume alcohol. No one has reported this effect

from consuming m-state from sea water.

Some people have used Teflon® coated aluminum sauce pans for

heating lye or lye water. The Teflon® got scratched and the aluminum

started dissolving in the lye water producing hydrogen gas which could

have exploded. The liquid was contaminated with aluminum which is a

poison.

AVOIDING PROBLEMS

Use sea water, reconstituted sea water made from sea salt or Dead Sea

salt, or salt lake water. In general, start with a clean and deep source of

water. Some people have gone out to sea in boats to collect sea water

from 100 feet deep.

Generally avoid water that has lead, arsenic or other toxic elements in

it. Start with water that is drinkable except for salt content.

Conduct an elemental and toxic analysis of questionable

starting-material sources (such as seawater collected close to the shore,

or near sources of industrial waste runoff).

Boiling in lye water kills bacteria but it does not destroy toxic metals or

chemicals in your source water.

Follow these instructions and slowly change the pH of your solution.

Avoid water with sulfur or sulfates in it because such water produces

little or no m-state precipitate.

Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react

with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and could poison you.

ORMUS CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES

CONTINUED...

[Back to first page] [Back to previous page]

 

Wet Method Procedure

How to Purify Your Precipitate -- Removing Mg(OH)2

1. Method 1

2. Method 2

3. Method 3

4. Method 4

Dry Method

1. Extra Supplies

2. Holder For Filters

3. Starting Materials

4. Procedure

Boiling Gold Method

1. Extra Supplies

2. Procedure

Appendix

1. M-state Storage

2. Chemical Suppliers

3. Lab Supplies

4. Starting-Material Sources

 

WET-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

 

First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution. Label an eyedropper bottle or

squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with something else.

Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained. Lye gives off eye-stinging

fumes when mixed with water. To avoid inhaling fumes, hold your breath and

wear goggles while doing the following procedure.

 

Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy glass then

stir in 1 teaspoon of lye. Stir until the lye is dissolved. Heat will be generated

as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot. You may want to close

your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a peek periodically.

 

Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.

 

If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on a piece

of white paper on a plate.

 

For the best accuracy, recalibrate the pH paper throughout the day with changes

in temperature and humidity, as well as day-to-day. Buffer solutions of pH 4, 7

and 10 will help with this. Sources of pH buffer solutions are listed near the

end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.

 

If you are using dried sea minerals, mix 1/2 cup of dry material with 2 cups of

distilled water. This makes sea water. Now proceed as described below:

 

1. First, you might want to pour the sea water through a coffee filter to

remove any scum.

 

2. If the starting material does not contain magnesium hydroxide (sea

water does contain magnesium hydroxide), add some, or add a

teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water.

 

3. Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop,

add the lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test

the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different

regions of the liquid. If you are using pH paper, the goal is to bring the

pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pH

meter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.

 

A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.

 

CAUTION: You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not

exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go

higher than pH 10.78, you might get a "Gilcrest precipitate" of toxic

heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce

any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be

assumed.

 

4. Once you are at the correct pH, stop.

 

5. Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.

 

6. The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar.

Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled

out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably

mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of

m-state.

 

You can speed this settling process with a centrifuge, which forces the

precipitate to settle rapidly. Inexpensive second-hand centrifuges may

be found at American Science and Surplus, http://www.sciplus.com.

 

7. Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.

 

8. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly,

and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.

 

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 at least three times to thoroughly wash the

precipitate. This should remove almost all of the lye. The remaining lye

can be neutralized with HCl or distilled white vinegar as well. Washing

three times is intended to reduce the dissolved "impurities" (like salt,

for example) by 87.5%. Four washes would provide a 93.75%

reduction, five washes a 96.875% reduction, and so on.

 

At this point, the precipitate is likely to contain some m-state, milk of

magnesia Mg(OH)2, calcium, and perhaps some impurities.

 

Pour the precipitate and water into a stainless steel pot on a stove

burner. A gas burner is preferred over electric because any magnetic

fields from the electric burner may drive off some of the m-state

material. Cover the pot with a lid to contain the m-state, and boil the

solution for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Be careful not to spill the hot

solution! Let it cool back to room temperature and recheck the pH to

make sure it hasn't exceeded pH 9.

DISCUSSION: WHEN TO BOIL THE SOLUTION

In this document, we suggested that you not boil the solution until you

have made the washed precipitate. However, boiling can be done earlier

in the procedure with certain advantages. Here are four times that

boiling could be done, with a discussion of the pros and cons of each:

 

1. Boil before adding lye solution.

 

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the

hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes.

 

2. Boil while adding lye solution.

 

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the

hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes. Danger of lye spurting out of

pot. Not recommended.

 

3. Boil and cool after adding lye solution.

 

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. Little danger of spilling hot lye

solution. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation.

 

4. Boil the washed precipitate (recommended).

 

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. No danger of spilling hot lye

solution. pH is unlikely to change after boiling because the reaction has

already taken place. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation. If

safety is the main issue, this seems to be the best method.

 

Caution: If you boil the solution on an electric burner, the magnetic

field in the burner may "blow off" some of the m-state materials,

resulting in a small yield. This can be minimized by adding a source of

sodium (such as sodium hydroxide or salt) to the solution before

boiling.

 

Since sea water contains sodium in salt, none of the boiling methods

will be a problem with sea water. However, if you are starting with

low-sodium fresh water, add a sodium source (such as table salt or lye

solution) before boiling.

 

Once the precipitate and water have been sterilized, the next step is

required to concentrate the m-state.

HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE

The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia

(Mg(OH)2), which precipitates approximately around the same pH

range that m-state does.

 

Here are four methods to separate Mg(OH)2 from m-state:

 

METHOD 1

 

1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution

to sea water. The precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH)2.

 

2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and

discard the liquid. This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2

precipitate.

 

3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you

reduce the pH to 1.0 - 3.5. You can use muriatic acid (31%

HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to

be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled white

vinegar.

 

4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a

clear solution.

 

5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring

the pH back up to 8.5 - 8.7. The precipitate that forms should

be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-state

precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not

precipitate until pH 9.)

 

Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are

not going past pH 8.7.

 

6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the

precipitate. It should be mostly m-state.

 

METHOD 2

 

This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below

pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters.

A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.

 

1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for

one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.

 

2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.

 

3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled

water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.

 

4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring

the pH to 5 or 6.

 

5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state

should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should

dissolve.

 

6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour

everything into filter paper.

 

7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times

with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or

vinegar.

 

8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275

degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of

Mg(OH)2.

 

METHOD 3

 

1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F.

 

2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or

30% HCl. Everything which does not dissolve in m-state. This

will be quite a small amount if you start with sea water. (If you

mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO

WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).

 

3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or

vinegar/m-state solution).

 

4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an

amount of water that is at least ten times the amount of

HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute distilled white

vinegar for HCl).

 

5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.

 

6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of

distilled water.

 

METHOD 4

 

1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH

up to 12. The m-state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium

hydroxide and the Gilcrest precipitate will not.

 

2. Filter out the precipitate.

 

3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or

distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.

 

4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to

10.78. The resulting precipitate should be only m-state.

 

5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.

 

6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should

be 9 or less before ingesting.

 

DRY METHOD

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

 

This method takes longer than the WET method. In some cases, it

involves boiling lye for several hours, which may spray some caustic

solution around your work area. Please wear neoprene gloves, a PVC

lab apron, and eye goggles when you use this method. Sources for this

safety clothing are listed near the end of this document under LAB

SUPPLIES.

 

Some people have reported adverse reactions to the WET method

precipitate or powder. This may be due to the Gilcrest precipitates

which occur above pH 11.5. The DRY method removes the dangerous

Gilcrest precipitates, so it results in safer material.

EXTRA SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR THE DRY METHOD

12-cup coffee filters from a grocery store.

 

Hydrochloric acid. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a

hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated.

Other acids can be used, but HCl will not harm the body if accidentally

ingested in weak solutions and in small amounts. You might prefer to

use distilled white vinegar instead of HCl. Although distilled white

vinegar (acetic acid) is weaker than HCl, is it safer to work with.

 

Heavy plastic HDPE cottage cheese containers, 1 pint and 1 quart, to

hold the coffee filters.

MAKING A HOLDER FOR THE COFFEE FILTERS

1. Start with a pint and a quart container for cottage cheese.

Make sure the pint container will fit into the quart container.

The pint container should hang inside the lip of the quart

container.

 

2. Across the bottom of the pint container, punch or drill

several holes, 1/8" to 1/4" diameter, about 1/4" apart.

 

3. If the small container fits too tightly into the larger container,

you may need to drill some air-pressure equalization holes

around the outside of the large container near the level of the

bottom of the small container. Otherwise the air pressure

between the two containers will keep liquid from draining from

the coffee filters. When you use this filter, place the cottage

cheese containers in a stainless steel or glass container to catch

any overflow. The lye water that you will be filtering may

damage counter tops or cabinets if it contacts them.

 

4. The coffee filters should fit nicely into the smaller top

cottage-cheese container.

DRY METHOD STARTING MATERIALS

Generally start with dry material such as sweepings from salt and alkali

flats, rock powders, limestone, mineral salts, Isis or Etherium white gold

powder, volcanic ash, plant cinders, etc.

 

These are some materials that produce a lot of precipitate from the DRY

method:

Crushed, unheated limestone (Caution: agricultural grade

powdered limestone from some sources contains sufficient

lead and/or arsenic to be a potential hazard)

Golden Nectar trace mineral formula

Etherium/Isis Gold powder

Ancient Secrets Dead Sea Mineral Salts

Masada salts (unscented)

DRY-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

 

First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution. Label an eyedropper

bottle or squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with

something else. Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained.

Lye gives off eye-stinging fumes when mixed with water. To avoid

inhaling fumes, hold your breath and wear goggles while doing the

following procedure.

 

Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy

glass then stir in 1 teaspoon of lye. Stir until the lye is dissolved. Heat

will be generated as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot.

You may want to close your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a

peek periodically.

 

Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.

 

If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on

a piece of white paper on a plate (as illustrated above). Now proceed as

described below:

 

1. Grind the starting material to a fine powder.

 

2. Add 1:4 lye solution to cover the dry material with a thin

layer.

 

3. Stir in some distilled water to cover the powder and lye by 2

inches.

 

4. Bring to a boil (this is best done outdoors or in an exhaust

hood). The pH should be at or slightly above 12. The lye

brings the m-state elements into solution while leaving the

Gilcrest precipitates as solids.

 

NOTE: If you start with sea salt, you can omit the boiling step

with its noxious fumes, and simply let the solution sit for three

days. Then go directly to Step 7. (Some other starting

materials might also react without boiling).

 

5. If you are boiling the solution, replace water as needed to

maintain sufficient reactant volume.

 

6. Boil for several hours -- the longer the better -- in a closed

container. The container may be open if you add liquid as

needed. Four hours should be sufficient for Etherium/Isis

material.

 

7. Strain the slurry through 3 to 5 layers of coffee filters. You

are removing the toxic elements (Gilcrest precipitate) that

precipitate above pH 11.5.

 

Save the liquid that passes through the filters. Most m-state

present will be in solution in the liquid.

 

8. While stirring the liquid, slowly add HCl or distilled white

vinegar to bring the pH down to 8.5. A white precipitate forms

which is partly m-state.

 

If you go too far, the pH will abruptly shift, and you will have

to start over. If this happens you must add lye quickly and

bring the pH back up to 12.

 

9. Let the precipitate settle overnight.

 

10. Using a large syringe (or a siphon), remove the liquid

above the slurry.

 

11. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir

thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours,

preferably overnight.

 

12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 at least three times to thoroughly

wash the precipitate. This removes most traces of lye and HCl

(or vinegar).

 

You'll get a wet, white precipitate (slurry) containing m-state

elements. Check that the pH is 9 or less before ingesting.

Some of the precipitate may be milk of magnesia or calcium.

If you wish, you can remove them using the precipitate

purification procedures described above.

 

BOILING-GOLD METHOD

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

 

This method produces pure gold ORMUS. With this method, you

must boil some lye solution for one to two weeks. This may spray

some caustic solution around your working area. Please wear neoprene

gloves, a PVC lab apron, and eye goggles when you use this method.

Sources for this safety clothing are noted under LAB SUPPLIES near

the end of this document.

EXTRA SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR THE BOILING-GOLD

METHOD

Coffee filters from a grocery store.

 

Hydrochloric acid (HCl). You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a

hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated.

Instead of HCl, you might prefer to use distilled white vinegar (acetic

acid). Distilled white vinegar is weaker than HCl but is safer to use.

 

A stainless steel pot or glass pot will work, but stainless steel and glass

are attacked by NaOH. Glass is preferred over stainless steel.

 

A preferred container is a sealed Teflon® or HDPE bottle in a water

bath in a crock pot. Please note that a Teflon® bottle is NOT the same

as a Teflon® coated aluminum container. Never use aluminum or

Teflon® coated aluminum containers and utensils because aluminum

will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.

 

If you use a sealed Teflon® or HDPE bottle in a water bath fill it only

half full with your lye and gold then squeeze the bottle to eliminate

most of the air above the liquid before you tighten the cap. This will

allow the bottle to expand as the liquid is heated.

PROCEDURE FOR THE BOILING-GOLD METHOD

1. Add 99.99% pure gold dust to a lye solution of pH 12 or

more.

 

2. Boil the solution for two weeks in a CLOSED container.

One week may be sufficient, but two weeks will likely have a

higher yield. Add water as needed. CAUTION: Do not

inhale the vapors!

 

3. Strain the solution using the coffee filter holder described

above. Save any remaining gold for future use.

 

4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar to bring the pH down to

pH 8.5. An off-white precipitate will appear. Let it settle

overnight.

 

5. Using a syringe, carefully suck out the liquid above the

precipitate.

 

6. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir

thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours,

preferably overnight.

 

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 at least three times to thoroughly wash

the precipitate.

 

APPENDIX

M-STATE STORAGE

Store m-state materials in

 

* Glass mason jars with wire-clamped glass lids and rubber gaskets

* Glass jars with plastic lids, or

* HDPE containers, which are stable in acid and alkali

 

Store m-state materials in the dark away from sunlight or ultraviolet

light. Ultraviolet light seems to move some m-state materials toward a

metallic state.

 

Because m-state materials are superconductors, they should be stored

in glass or HDPE containers inside of steel containers and away from

moving magnetic fields. Put the glass or HDPE container (containing

m-state) inside a steel tin such as those used for Christmas cookies,

gourmet popcorn or potato chips. If you intend to transport m-state

materials, it is best to nest three or four steel containers, one inside the

other with insulating material between, and place the glass or HDPE

container inside the inmost steel container.

 

You may notice that your m-state materials have bubbles rising from

them for a period of time after they are made. We believe that these

bubbles are m-state gas escaping. Some people have reported that the

m-state precipitate loses some of its effect as these bubbles leave. This

off-gassing seems to be reduced if the m-state is stored between room

temperature and body temperature in a magnetically shielded container.

It is advisable not to refrigerate m-state materials. At least one

researcher reports that refrigerated m-state materials are likely to move

toward a warmer place.

 

Since bacteria and mold can easily grow in m-state precipitate, it is best

to sterilize any material which you wish to store for long periods of

time and to store it using water bath canning methods.

CHEMICAL SUPPLIERS

Mowre W.E. Co.

1425 University Ave.

St. Paul, MN 55104

800-544-1550 (646-1895)

 

This supplier sells gold bullion, gold wire, gold shot, etc. They sell to

individuals through the mail and will process small orders. Good

prices.

_________________________________________________

 

Strem Chemicals, Inc.

Dexter Industrial Park

7 Mulliken Way

Newburyport, MA 01950-4098

info@strem.com

http://www.strem.com

 

No minimum order.

 

(978) 462-3191

(800) 647-8736

 

Some sample products:

 

93-7915 Gold powder (99.95%) 500 mg $50. 2g $160.

93-7913 Gold shot (99.95%) 500 mg $40. 2g $128.

 

LAB SUPPLIES

 

Cole-Parmer Instrument Co. 800-323-4340.

 

Weiss Research Inc.

11743 West Bellfort, Suite 168

Stafford, TX 77477

http://www.hia.net/weissres/meters.htm

They have a $175 pH meter (# PHM-150) with auto temperature

compensation from 0 to 100 degrees C, and a pH meter with manual

temperature conversion for $125.

 

McMaster-Carr Supply Co.

P.O. Box 4355

Chicago, IL 60680-4355

630-833-0300

fax 708-834-9427

 

McMaster-Carr Supply Co.

P.O. Box 54960

Los Angeles, CA 90054-0960

310-692-5911

fax 310-695-2323

 

Plastic syringe 50 cc with tapered tip 7510A665 pkg. of 10 $18.57

Milled-neoprene gloves 5307T5 $5.01

Wide-range pH test paper 8707T11 $8.89

PVC apron 53445T75 $4.55

Safety goggles with a face shield 5422T12 $18.94.

 

Also available are a pocket pH meter for $59, pH solutions,

water-test kits, hot plates, plastic tubing, and much more.

 

No minimum order. They sell to anyone and take VISA.

 

Edmund Scientific Company

101 East Gloucester Pike

Barrington, NJ 08007-1380 USA

Customer service: 1-609-573-6260 9 AM to 5 PM M-F

 

Disposable plastic syringes are available at many veterinary and

agricultural supply stores. Plastic infusion tips are available from the

same source.

 

More sources can be found at:

http://monatomic.earth.com/database/lab-sources/

 

STARTING-MATERIAL SOURCES

 

Sea water: Sigma Chemical. $10/liter. From the Gulf of Mexico.

Sterile. http://www.sigma.sial.com/

 

Sea salt to reconstitute sea water: Health-food store, oriental food store.

 

Target Glacial Rock Dust from Gaia Resources in Grand Forks, BC,

Canada.

 

Get gold from a coin dealer.

Get gold dust by panning for it in a stream.

Gold dust might be available from Keene Engineering in Northridge,

CA.

See CHEMICAL SUPPLIERS earlier in this Appendix.

Also check out a gold mining supply store.

In California try http://www.treasurenet.com/calgold/prospect.html

The gold should be at least 99.99% pure gold.

 

Golden Nectar (trace minerals). $40/gallon.

http://bulksales.com/index.htm

This may be at health food stores.

 

Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water ($7 for 8 ounces) at your local health

food store.

Trace Minerals Research, P.O. Box 429, Roy,

UT 84076.

http://www.traceminerals.com

http://bulksales.com

 

Etherium white powder gold: http://www.etheriumgold.com/

phone 503-625-2880.

 

Isis white powder gold: http://onlinehealth.web2010.com/isis.html

Always check the supplier for radioactive materials and heavy metals. Consider that these never breakdown overtime. Consider what that could mean after one year of supplementation. Extraction with Consciousness and Wisdom.

PLEASE KNOW. THE WAR ON DRUGS, WEATHER THEY BE VITAMINS AND AMINO ACIDS, NEUROTRANSMITTERS, PLANTS, HOMEOPATHIC MEDICINE, OR ALCHEMICAL PRODUCTS, IS ANSWERED BY JUST SAY KNOW, INSTEAD OF THE MAFIA SUPPORTING "JUST SAY NO'.

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED, USE YOUR HEART IN YOUR MIND, PRACTICE DAILY INTERNAL ALCHEMY, WHOLE BODY PHASE-CONJUGATION THROUGH COMPASSIONATE ECSTASIS (see Vortexijah). THERE IS NOT SHORT CUT FOR THE GOLD. NO BABY BOTTLE HERE. 'SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND.'

 

 

THE COMPLETE TEXT FOR THIS ALCHEMY CAN BE FOUND AT

http://www.triax.com/bmnfa/science/ORMUS/whatisit.htm